Why Winterising Pays Off

When the water temperature drops and your local lake or cable park shuts up shop for the season, it’s tempting to shove your wakeboard and bindings into the back of the garage and forget about them. But those cold, damp months can do serious damage. UV light, freezing temperatures, and lingering moisture attack the board’s core, the resin, and the rubber compounds in your bindings. Cracks appear, screws rust, and neoprene goes brittle. A little effort now saves you a fortune in replacements come spring.

Winterising isn’t about wrapping your gear in cotton wool. It’s about controlling the three enemies of wake gear: dirt, moisture, and extreme temperatures. Follow these steps and your setup will be ready to ride the moment the ice melts.

Give Everything a Deep Clean

Before you store anything, clean it properly. Dirt and salt (if you ride in coastal spots) hold moisture against the board and bindings, leading to corrosion and mould. Start by removing your bindings from the board. Use a bucket of warm water with a few drops of mild washing-up liquid. Avoid harsh detergents, solvents, or abrasive cleaners – they can strip the board’s finish and dry out rubber.

For the board: wipe down the entire surface with a soft cloth or sponge. Pay attention to the edges, the base, and around the fin screws. Use a soft-bristled brush for any stubborn grime in the channels or texture. Rinse with fresh water and dry immediately with a microfibre towel.

For the bindings: hand wash the outer shells and straps with the same mild soapy water. If the liners are removable, take them out and wash them separately. Rinse thoroughly – soap residue can attract dirt and irritate your skin. Never machine wash or tumble dry bindings; the heat will warp them.

• Do: Use a dedicated bucket and fresh water.
• Do: Rinse inside and out of binding straps.
• Don’t: Use a pressure washer – it forces water into the core.
• Don’t: Leave gear soaking in water.

Inspect and Fix Small Issues

With everything clean and dry, give it a once-over in good light. Small problems become big ones after a few months in storage. Run your fingers along the board’s edges – feel for cracks, chips, or soft spots. Check the base for deep scratches that expose the core. For minor dings, a little two-part epoxy (available from most hardware shops) can seal the damage. Follow the instructions carefully and let it cure fully before storage.

Check all screws: fins, binding inserts, and any hardware. Rusty screws should be replaced. Stainless steel is best. A dab of silicone grease on the threads prevents seizing and makes next season’s removal easier. For bindings, inspect straps, laces, and buckles for wear. Frayed laces or cracked plastic buckles are cheap to replace now rather than mid-session.

If you find major damage – a delaminated edge, a cracked core, or a broken binding base – consider professional repair. It’s often worth it for a favourite board.

The Golden Rule: Dry Thoroughly

Moisture is the silent killer of wake gear. Trapped water causes mould, mildew, rust, and delamination. After cleaning, dry everything completely. A microfibre towel gets most of the surface water. Then let the board and bindings air dry in a warm, well-ventilated room – not in direct sunlight, which can fade graphics and degrade rubber.

For bindings, open them up as much as possible. Remove liners, loosen all straps, and hang them so air circulates inside. If you have a dehumidifier, run it nearby. A small fan helps too. Silica gel packets placed inside the binding shells can absorb any residual dampness. Give it at least 24 hours – longer if the weather is humid.

Never use a hairdryer or radiator to speed things up. High heat can warp the board’s base, melt glue, and crack rubber. Patience is key.

Store Smart – Board and Bindings

Where and how you store your gear matters as much as how you clean it. Choose a cool, dry, dark place – a cupboard, a spare room, or a garage that doesn’t freeze. Avoid sheds or lofts with extreme temperature swings, as expansion and contraction stress the materials.

For the board: store it flat on a shelf or hang it horizontally by the nose or tail using a padded hook. Avoid leaning it against a wall for months – that can create a permanent curve. Keep it away from heavy objects that might dent the base.

For bindings: ideally, store them off the board. If you must leave them mounted, loosen all straps so they’re not under tension. Never store bindings folded or squashed – the foam and rubber will take a set. Place them in a breathable cotton bag or pillowcase. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture.

• Do: Store board and bindings separately if possible.
• Do: Keep everything away from mice – they love chewing neoprene.
• Don’t: Stack heavy items on top of your board.
• Don’t: Leave gear in a hot car or cold shed.

Bindings Need Extra Attention

Bindings are often the most expensive part of your setup, and they’re also the most vulnerable. Rubber and neoprene dry out, crack, and lose flexibility over winter. After cleaning and drying, apply a thin layer of silicone spray or a dedicated rubber conditioner to the outer shells and straps. This keeps them supple and protects against UV damage. Avoid petroleum-based products like Vaseline – they can degrade rubber over time.

Check the footbed and heel hold. If the liner has packed out or the Velcro has lost its grip, make a note to replace it before next season. Store bindings loosely filled with crumpled newspaper or bubble wrap to hold their shape – but don’t overstuff. Finally, keep the mounting hardware in a small labelled bag taped to the board, so you’re not hunting for screws in spring.

A little care now means your wakeboard and bindings will be ready for that first crisp morning session. Treat them well, and they’ll reward you with years of reliable riding.